The responses I got from travelers and family when telling them about my plans to visit Myanmar varied greatly.  Anything from “Oh that’s so cool!” to “Amazing! Prepare to get sick from the street food, but well worth it.” to “I’d never support tourism in a country that does those things they do.”  I’ve always been on to make my own opinion so I didn’t let any negativity hinder my plans.  There are plenty of articles out there discussing the ethics of travel in Myanmar, and this won’t be the place.  As restrictions on tourism have been subsiding in recent years, I thought someone who worked in the industry would be the perfect person to speak with. 

Funny how this conversation came to be – I had laid my motorcycle down on some loose gravel roads and needed some slight repairs.  When I showed up at the bike shop with little English speaking happening, Zaw was getting some routine maintenance done and helped me translate my conversation with the shop owner.  While I sat and waited we got to chatting, and then I got the nerve to ask him to make an appearance here:

B You’re English is quite good, how’d it get so good?

Z Here, there’s no English training center. That’s why I watch lots of movies and I learn from my senior tour guide.  I also read books and listen to podcasts.

B Oh podcasts I love those what’s your favorite one.

Z I have an application on my phone and I’ve downloaded lots of audio files. Before I sleep I switch them on.

B How long have you been a tour guide?

Z Three years.

B Is that when Myanmar opened up for more tourism?

Z Yes, year after year tourists are here more and more. We’ve got a lot of clients, but the summer is too hot.  That’s why less tourists are here right now.

B It is toasty I’m sweating right now.  What were you before you were a tour guide?

Z I worked in hotel, in the restaurant, as a waiter.

B In Bagan?

Z Yes.

B Are you from proper Bagan?

Z Yes, this is my little town.

B Have you noticed a lot of changes since tourism has spiked?

Z Yes, lots of things have changed, this area is completely dependent on tourism. Sometimes it depends on our politics, weather, conditions, some years tourism is down and sometimes it’s good.  Around about 2007, tourism was very bad, no tourists were here, because of our political problems between monks and the military government.  This is why every tourist was afraid of them, they didn’t come here, we had no work, and life was very difficult to survive.

B So you guys just transitioned out of having the military government?

Z Yes.

B Do you think that’ll be good for tourism?

Z Very better, lot of things have changed. Our lives, our visions, everything is open. We can talk about our politics in public.

B Awhile ago you couldn’t do that?

Z No, we’d get in trouble, if we talked about our politics we go to jail

B ah not a fun jail either.

Z Hehe, yes.
B Some people I talk to are shocked if I said I was coming here and they’d say it’s dangerous – what’d you say to them?
Z No here is not dangerous, our country, the people are very polite and hospitable, here is very safe.  Everywhere has some terrorists where there mind has negative sense, and they want trouble sometimes. Bagan this area is very safe, because tourists are very important for us. 
B That’s good the government knows to protect that industry.
Z The government targets to China, they invite lots of Chinese tourists.  We hear that a million will come this summer.
B Have you ever been outside of Myanmar?
Z No.
B Where would you want to go if you left?
Z I want to visit Southeast Asian countries like Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia.  I want to see Angkor Wat.  And actually I want to go to Paris.
B ah Paris, the Eiffel Tower?
Z When I watch the movie I very admire and I’d like to go there.
B Do you have a family?
Z Yes, I have only one older sister now?
B Older?
Z Yes, she lives in other city.
B Which city?
Z Pakokku – it’s 50 kilometers away from here on other side of Irrawaddy River. She’s working as a teacher in University.
B Oh as a teacher, what does she teach?
Z Civil Engineering.
B Wow that’s impressive she’s really smart.
Z Yes, she’s very smart I’m not.
B Ahh different kinds of smarts, does she speak this good of English?
Z Uh no.
B Ah good language to know – Does she have a family?
Z Yes, she has a son and a husband.  She works in university, and her husband opened a bar near station.
B Ah people like to drink they’re probably going to make money.
Z Yes, every evening crowded.
B So you grew up here, what’d your parents do?
Z They’re employed for the government, but my parents already passed away.  My dad passed away 11 years ago, and my mom 9 years ago.
B Did they push you to learn English or was that your own decision?
Z No but they pushed for education, not only for English. They sent me to University after I graduated they passed.

B If someone didn’t know a lot about Myanmar what would you want them to know or what would you tell them?
Z Sometimes I’ve found some friends from Pakistan on Facebook and they ask to me, your people are terrorists and they genocide Muslim people. They ask to me, actually they cause some wrong message to other countries, mostly BBC. That’s why I told to them, I invite them, come and watch for yourself. After that you can decide if the message is true or not. I invite everyone to here. Myanmar is very flexible and hospitable.
B That’s good prove them wrong.
Z Some people cause very bad message, and we have to explain that. Some clients come to our country and they believe that message so we have to explain, and after that they know. Also I have some friends, they are very bad, they want to drink every evening, they want to gamble, and I try to tell them – Don’t do it! Some guys want to drink alcohol in the evening, and I take them to drink tea in the tea shop.
B That’s good, seems like you’re a really good influence on your friends.
Z Yes, also sometimes I drink, but I don’t like lots of all day drinking.

B So I have a life goals list, some things I’d like to accomplish in life. Do you have any of these?
Z Yes, Now I prepare a garage. After eight months I will open a garage and maintain some cars, alignment, car wash, car spa, coating. This is my dream.
B That’s a good business, just like this place, it will probably make a lot of money.
Z Yes, also I want to rent car and motorbike. My goal is to become a businessman.

Zaw was incredibly genuine and spoke great English.  While I didn’t take a tour through him, I wish I would’ve, as I’m sure he would’ve shown me around Bagan and the surrounding areas quite well.  You can reach out to him here: https://zawmyothu1.blogspot.com/2017/10/about-me.html

If you have any recommendations on who I should seek out to interview in my upcoming destinations of Vietnam or the Philippines, please reach out in the comments or contact me section.

Until next time, Beau B

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